transtrion

"Dom här bladen har ALDRIG sett ut såhär förut!"

(These leaves have NEVER looked like this before!)

//Nisse

It's close to one, I'm slowly moving left and right in my bunk bed so as to make sure I'm sweating evenly across the mattress. Two chinese guys are showing their respective gadgets to each other, apparently amazed by the functionality of websites like dropbox and such. They're well annoying. I try to glance at them as hard as I can, even letting out my breath really hard to convey my annoyance. They don't seem to care. In Sweden people would have cared.

Victor wakes up, quickly turning his head left and right to find the thing that disturbed his rest. If you've known Victor for a while, which I have, you will eventually get to know his "the fuck" face. It's when he raises one eyebrow, often without opening the eyes, tilts his head to the side, and bends up his top lip in disgust. He does this, lets out a loathsome groan, turns around and goes back to sleep.

I think it's really funny, so much so that I forget there was something I had to ask him. Fuck! I need the toilet paper that's inside his safe.

I decide to go out on a limb and hope there's paper in the bathroom. It's a long shot, but it turns out today is my day. Nisse, who apparently is awake too, knocks on the door asking if I have the paper. I do. And i intend to keep it.

As I sit there, redecorating the ceramics, I think to myself that we had indian food today. For the first time in one month, except for a few franchised restaurant visits, we decided to stray away from the local cuisine and try something different. Isn't it ironic that after all the non-waterwashed salad, dried squid, fried chicken family, mashed snake, unidentified vegetables and semi-uncooked meat in general, the one time we actually have steaming hot chicken korma in a nice restaurant my guts turn themselves inside out?

At least the food was real good! Or "shit good" as we say in swedish.

Well, that's how I imagined Rex bar to be like. It wasn't even close.

//Nisse

“Victor?”

“Yes?”

“Ouch, that hurt…”

“Nisse?”

“Yes?”

“It’s turning here.”

“Wait, were?”

“Few meters.”

“Oooooh, it’s turning!”

“Now it’s stairs.”

“Victor?”

“It’s stairs now!”

“Man, that hurt! Stairs are going up?”

“Yes…”

“Where are you?”

“Here.”

“No shit!”

vI know, it’s so dark!”

“I hit my head again.”

“Nisse?”

“Yes?”

“It’s a hole here!”

“What did you say!”

“Nisse, what did you say?”

“Victor, there was a hole there!”

“I told you! I can still hear the others.”

“Nope.”

“Guess not.”

“I’m hurt…”

“Me too, maybe we’re almost there?”

“Hope so.”

This was a paraphrase, of course, an outtake from the lively and sort of hysterical discussion between Victor and Nisse during their crouching through the Cu Chi Tunnels. The language might have been slightly different, for one it could have been in Swedish, but for printing purposes did I believe this to be more fitting. For a more correct and dynamic dialog you could imagine cursing and screaming to a ratio of 2:1 versus normal words.

//Nisse

Just got back from Cat ba which was brilliant! Cold, but very beautiful. We've seen so many cool caves and inland lakes that landscape wise, there is not much that could possibly contend. Unforntunetly we had a bit bit of a tide problem, namely it was too low which meant no monkeys. I must admit I was sadfaceing a little but the Aussie tour guide we had made such an effort with us (broken boats, low tides etc. and then still trying to make sure we felt we got our moneys worth) that I couldn't bring myself to do anything other than put on a huge smile and thank him for the effort. It was, regardless of the problems, a great tour!

Tomorrow we're picking up the visas and passports from the Cambodian embassy and then we plan to head for the city of Hoi an which is famous for its cheap prices on tailored suits and shirts. I think I might get me some things while we're there! Another great part about this is that we're heading south into warm country again. I think we're all pretty fed up with this persistent cold we have been followed by since leaving Hainan.

I've learnt a new word today: smitten. And I think I might be.

Also, I'm in the mood for a party... maybe in Hoi an?

I might be a slightly religious man, but I bet most people get a spiritual feeling when entering a cathedral, or any other religious building for that matter. I guess people react to different feelings that a religious place provides, but I'm assuming it got something to do with the grandness and overall purity off the place. At least that was my first thought as we found our own cathedral while kayaking on the coast of Cat Ba.

We'd gotten our planed day trip cancelled, due to broken boat, and therefor had to rally for a new plan. Our amazing hotel manager and tour-guide, a Aussie by the name of Mr. Jim, had probably felt bad about our situation and loaned us a kayak each, so we headed out in the archipelago immediately.

We'd all experienced better weather, and better clothing, but no one could complain with the scenery around us. Massive rock-formations rose from a sea of jade, almost floating on the teal water as we paddled by. A slight mist covered the tops of some cliffs, as well as the distance ahead of us. A few fishing boats of braided leaves and tar were drifting around in the bays as we passed, with their fishermen working in a slow and steady pace.

We paddled on, entering a few caves and bays, with the curious and happy smile across our faces that only a beautiful view can provide. We passed a few floating cities that probably also worked with fishing, or possibly had a fish farm somewhere close. Every little floating shackle had at least one dog, and when the houses formed a smaller village was it more like a big, spread out wolf-pack.

"It's like a cathedral..." Thomas had stopped paddling and entirely blacked out, by the looks of him impossible to contact. Victor had drifted off in his own direction, with his mouth slightly open. These reactions were understandable. The small cave had been a tunnel, a tunnel to a small lake surrounded by steep cliffs and mist. We couldn't see the top of the cliffs in most parts, they were so far up in the fog that created a kind of a roof. The rounded cliffs created a wall around us which bounced the occasional screech of a bird, and the floor was made of the magical jade water and had the size of about two football fields.

Looking up a bit as you came through the tunnel,on the tiniest of alcoves, could you see a pillar the size of a couple of people, or an elephant. It had, with some imagination, a remotely similar shape to something alive, possibly a human, but with that placement and size wouldn't it be anything less then a demigod. We named it Mochba, after agreeing that neither Victor, nor Nils, really had the potential or deep sound to it that a god at this place would need.

Thomas had been right, this really was like a cathedral, but not as like the ones at home. The grandness and purity was there, in some form, but this religion was dying. I can easily imagine people streaming in to this cave on canoes, floating on the sea of jade, just above the fields of coral in green and white and red. I can almost hear their chanting in deep voices as they pray to their god, who answers with an enormous echo that bounces against the wall with bone shaking force. I can see lights from torches lightening the green and grey walls, with shadows dancing around the sound of pray and drums. The mist, covering the cathedral from above, would absorb the outside world as this was all that was real at the moment.

I can imagine the spirituality, even if it was long ago since it was felt the last time. Luckily we brought it back for a little time.

//Nisse

The journey to Hanoi was not exactly 5 star! In fact it was one of the most grueling 20 hours I’ve ever gone through. Firstly the bus and boat from Haikou to the mainland and Nanning was the weirdest thing I’ve ever seen! I couldn’t help myself from laughing out loud the first five minutes on the bus ride. It was a sleeper bus but it was definitely not tailored for western men. These beds were so fucking small! The only way I could fit in it was to bend in ways I didn’t think I could. It’s unfortunate that I found this out during a bus ride through rural China rather than during something… more fun I suppose. When we finally arrived at the Vietnamese border I was knackered. And with no prepaid visa and very little cash I was a little nervous but Kevin told me to embrace spontaneity so I did! We were in luck though; when we got to the border they said something in very broken English followed by the word Swedish and then they just let us through. No money and no problems. I instantly decided that I intend to like this country!

Hanoi was a really cool city, full of scooters and really cheap hotels. We stayed at a really fancy hotel for 60 crowns a night! (60 cuay for you Chinese) It is however freezing! I’m walking around in two sweaters and I’m still a little cold. Good thing I decided to keep my shoes, unlike the other two who are walking around in flip-flops in fridge that is northern Vietnam. They keep good spirits though; I haven’t heard a whine since we got here. I imagine I would become rather horrendous to deal with if my feet were as cold as I imagine theirs are!

We just got to Ha long bay and the island of Cat ba and are staying at a hotel run by an Australian man in his 30’s. I love not having to breach a language barrier every time you need to communicate with the staff of a hostel/hotel! Tomorrow we go kayaking in the archipelago and on to the famous Monkey Island!

One thing I want to add is that I love the currency here! I felt like a total boss when I went to the ATM and took out 5 MILLION DONG!

Hainan is the shit, still not a single soul who knows English but we disregard that fact by lying very still on the beach soaking up every last bit sunray lost during Sweden’s dark winter months. The beer is still as good and the street food here is amazing! I might be wrong and it is most likely traveling 101 but I honestly believe that it is safer to eat food that I can see being cooked in front of me, at least then I know that it properly cooked. I'm still a little afraid of food poisoning!

Apparently this place is the ‘Russian Hawaii’ so a lot is in Cyrillic, I can’t help but being a little insulted when they start by giving me a Russian menu here. This goes back to the fun the other two had with my new hair cut in combination with the coat I got from Nisse’s dad, which was really warm and I totally appreciated it, but it totally made me look like a Russian. It seems the skills we acquired in Moscow reading Cyrillic were not in vain, pectopah will still lead us to restaurant.

I promised someone I try to write in English so that she’d understand at least a little bit so here goes! Arriving in Haikou was a sweet feeling especially after being stuck another day in Shanghai because of fog (What the hell? Fog? Really?) and staying at this shitty hotel in the middle of nowhere at the airlines expense. All I wanted to do was go back to Rock and wood Hostel and continue to hang out with this bunch of incredible people that we met during our stay in Shanghai. Nisse, being the more experienced traveler, was right - it’s dangerous to get overly attached. You only end up missing people you hopefully will but most likely won’t meet again. I can’t say anything for the other two but for me it feel like I left behind a potential mentor (Kevin you better come to Sweden in august!) and a person with the most incredible smile that will take me weeks to stop thinking about!

We’re now in SanYa which is really warm and all the three of us ever wanted, it’s so awesome and I plan to look like a fuckin’ crayfish tomorrow night from all the excessive sun bathing! We’re at a good hostel but are thinking about going somewhere away from the city pretty soonza, perhaps somewhere with pristine white beaches a plenty of Tsingtao!

Now all I can do is hope that you guys read this like you said you would, and I want you to remember that you made Shanghai awesome instead of the shithole we originally thought it would be! Remember us ‘cuz we’ll definitely remember you!

/Victor

Vi har nu varit i Shanghai i betydligt fler dagar än vad vi planerat, staden är fast besluten att behålla oss i dess grepp och till att börja med var jag frustrerad - jag ville ner till värmen så snabbt som bara möjligt! Men ju längre vi stannar desto mer glad är jag att vi har stannat. Vi har haft otroligt tur med rummet, och det finns folk på det här hostelet som jag tror jag kommer komma ihåg en lång tid framöver! Igår morse drog våran egen Canadia-ey Jason ifrån oss och det var otroligt tråkigt, en kille med gladare attityd får man fan leta efter! Sen har vi Kevin, intelligent och festens centrum. En filosofisk ung herre som kan föra seriösa disskutioner under en fest utan att alla spacear ur och slutar lyssna! Så jävla cool kille!

Shanghai har visat sig bli våran feststad! Med trevligt folk, bra ställen att gå till och öl för tio spenn flaskan är det svårt att misslyckas med en kväll! Till viss del längtar man hem lite då och då men jag har insett det att det viktigaste med en sådan här resa är att uppskatta nuet, vi är fast i Shanghai men det har å andra sidan gett mer tillbaka än vad vi någonsin kunnat tänka oss!

Imorgon drar vi till Haikou och Hainan, vädret när vi kommer ner ska ligga mellan 25 och 30 grader och solen skola skina! Jag är jättetaggad på lite värme!

Saknar syrran lite, hon hade nog diggat playan vi ska till!

//Victor "El Toro Grande" Jeansson

Vi har haft tur med vädret än så länge, men nu nu hänger regnet i luften. Det är kallt och grått utomhus, den form av brist på väder som inte ens skulle kunna hålla en diskussion vid liv mellan två nästan bekanta. Icke-vädret ligger och trycker över de ovanligt tomma gatorna i Shanghai, antagligen är det bara jag som inte har nått bättre för mig.

Jag har tagit mig till Lu Jia Zui Metro Station i centrala Shanghai och sedan vandrat upp på en bro över en avstängd aveny. Huvudet känns tungt och jag tittar igenom människor som passerar. Bakom dom lyfter sig Shanghais silhuett av fashionabla skrytbyggen. Jag inser att kameran inte kan fånga känslan, som så många gånger förut, men jag försöker ändå. Jag försöker fånga känslan av att stå vid foten till stora skrytbyggen utan att känna speciellt mycket alls.

Vi hade två dagar innan stått på andra sidan vattnet och skrattat åt formen på kreationerna. En skyskrapa såg ut som en Systemet-påse för vinflaskor, en annan som en robot från en film vi alla hade sett. Dom har samma gråa ton som vädret, det är bara formen som sticker ut. Både bildligt och bokstavligt. Trots det hade jag gärna jobbat i ett av dom.

Framför mig skuttar en tjej omkring och fnittrar medan hon pratar i telefon. Hon är egentligen mer intressant än byggnaderna bakom henne inser jag och lyfter kameran för att ta kort på henne istället. Hon har ett stort vitt munskydd som täcker större delen av hennes ansikte, trots det är jag ganska säker på att hon ler stort bakom. Hon verkar ha vant sig vid att leva med ett sånt över ansiktet.

Det är kallt, men snart åker vi söderut. Haikou på ön Hainan i södra Kina väntar om två nätter. Mina kalla fötter längtar efter den varma sanden.

//Nisse

Det har varit stressigt i flera dagar nu och det är först här, under den första eftermiddagen i Shanghai som vi haft tid att lugna ner oss och sova ut lite sen de första dagarna på tåget. Det är faktiskt lite mer av en påtvingad vila, då vi alla nästan brutit ihop under ett flertal tillfällen idag efter en sömnlös tågresa från Beijing. Det är kallt och allt är svårt att förstå. Inte för att jag störs av de konstiga tecknen, utan konstigt nog känner jag mig väldigt hemma i en miljö av annan kultur och andra skrivspråk sen min tid i Indien. Det är istället kylan som tar på oss och det är inte bara Victor som klagar.

Både igår och idag har jag drömt bort, kopplat på autopilot över funktioner som navigering och vandring, och tänkt på livet hemma. Varför reser jag? Det är bara ännu en stad med nya hus. Vad vill jag egentligen läsa när jag kommer hem? Hur vill jag vara när jag är gammal? Jag vill kunna säga att jag slagits med en mongol och näckat på Kinesiska muren. Det är nog därför jag reser. Men ibland blir det för mycket. Eller kanske för lite?

Shanghai bjuder på ännu en stad och vi är trötta. Vi behöver sova. Trots det lyckades vi se staden ett tag idag och det bjöd på ett klart mer kinesisk liv. Stora byggnader och smala gränder med billig mat av okänt ursprung. De klagar fortfarande över lungan vi åt första dagen i Beijing men letar ändå efter något konstigare att äta. Det är helt rätt anda enligt mig.

Vi tröttna fort på att vandra och sköt nog upp det tills imorgon. Kanske. Väl hemma på vårat hostel tipsar min lillasyster mig då om att pappa fyller år, och det tar ganska hårt. Jag längtar kanske inte hem men jag skulle helt klart vilja ge pappa en stor kram på födelsedagen. Läser du detta får du fan se till och läsa din facebook. Vi har fortfarande inte hittat ett sett att gå runt censuren av blogspot och gmail.

Grattis på födelsedagen, men jag har tyvärr inget att ge dig. Utöver min kärlek. Från andra sidan jorden. Puss på dig!

//Nisse